![]() ![]() ![]() His intent was to demonstrate exactly what it meant to follow in the footsteps of John Bachar, Ron Kauk, John Long, and other great climbers. Learning of my ambitions to try my hands (pun intended) at what was once the hardest big wall free climb in the world and this being my first trip to Yosemite, our guide, the renowned Rusty Reno, took me on a tour of the granite crack training routes. As a young chap on my first visit to the Valley, I was coming off a near onsight of the Naked Edge (read: a heartbreaking fall on a trivial move on the last pitch!) and was feeling confident in my burgeoning crack-climbing and gear-placing abilities. It all started with Astroman: that legendary testpiece with its infamous Enduro corner featuring thin hands that reach into the heavens. I intend to share my experiences, both constructive and cautionary, with the hope that you can use them as a starting point to potentially improve on the design. It should be noted that as an engineer, I often have better ideas than creations and this instance is no exception. ![]() In this post, I explore my foray into the design and construction of these modern torture devices. With the (not so) recent exposure of the Wide Boyz and now Sonnie Trotter throwing in his and highlighting others’ contribution to the field, the proliferation of crack machines and their seemingly infinite design concepts is apparent. ![]()
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